For Day 3 you get the male perspective. For some strange reason, we can post to the blog, but can't see what we posted, so there might be some repeated information from Heather's previous posts. High speed internet access in Ethiopia is not exactly comparable to high speed internet access in the States.
As this is my first post in Ethiopia (or ever on a blog), I am starting by going back to our arrival in Ethiopia.
Addis Ababa is very green. My assumption was that everything would be brown and there would be very little vegetation. There are lots of trees and the countryside is very pretty. However, since it is the rainy season, there is mud everywhere.
There are approximately 4 million people in Addis Ababa (3 million according to Wikipeida, 4 million according to the locals). As you can guess, most of them are very poor. Everywhere you drive, it seems like all 4 million are out walking on the side of the road or crossing the road on foot in front of your car. I didn't say "sidewalks", I said side of the road. There are very few sidewalks. And since there is mud everywhere, many walkers just walk in the road. As a passenger in the car, you are in constant fear that someone will step right in front of the car and try and cross the street or sidestep another pedestrian and step into oncoming traffic. In the US, all cars stay in their lane and turn from the designated turn lane. In Addis, the lanes are merely suggestions and you should expect that the car in front of you will come into your lane. On many intersections, there are no yield signs, stop signs, or stop lights. It appears to be a system of who got there first. Apparently there are rules about yielding to the uphill driver, but to the untrained eye, these rules seem to be largely ignored. There a pot holes that can swallow a small SUV and on a regular basis, the road you need is not paved. All of this with most cars on the road that have no exhaust or emissions suppressors. Basically driving in Addis Ababa is not for the timid.
There is a tremendous amount of construction all over Addis. Buildings are going up all over the city. Many of them are relatively attractive 5-10 story buildings. The scaffolding used in construction does not look OSHA compliant, but it is getting the job done and employing thousands of people.
On our third day in Ethiopia, we took Zane to a US government approved doctor, for a check-up. Very basic deal. Basically the Doctor looked at Zane, used the stethoscope for about a minute and completed the paperwork by saying, "He looks fine."
Then we entered territory owned and controlled by the United States government. The US Embassy in Addis. Zane needed to get his 3rd blood test completed to test for AIDS. He was negative at 2 months, Negative at 5 months and I am sure will be negative at 6 months. Still it makes sense from a US Government perspective. You have to at least know what you are getting yourself into. The drawing of blood did not go well. We went last (there are 3 other families here with Gladney this week also) and got to hear most of the other kids scream pretty good. Zane had it much worse. They couldn't find a vein in his arm, so after what seemed like 20 minutes (probably a solid 2 minutes) of some technician digging a needle around the inside of his skin looking for a vein, they gave up and cut his finger to get the blood needed. This took a solid 2 minutes as they needed to fill two small vials. Zane was not happy. Much screaming occurred. As soon as they finished, he completely shut down and went to sleep. Not good times.
After lunch, we went to three orphanages. The first was the "older boys" government run orphanage. It has an official name, but I can't pronounce or spell it. "Older boys" is basically about 13 to 18, but there are many men that just don't leave, because they have no where to go. We talked to one man named Jo (not his real name, but a shortened version of his name that he asked us to call him), who was 21, spoke broken English, but much better then my Amharic. He had been in orphanages since the age of 5. His mother was alive and he saw her regularly, but she was counting on him to care for her soon. He was not confident that he would be able to.
This facility was basically run by the orphans. There were a very few adults and approximately 150 boys. There were 4 or 5 buildings with at least 20 beds in each building. No screens and many of the window were broken. Metal roofs that leaked. Shortly after our arrival, it started pouring rain. One of the women with us asked Ryan (the Gladney coordinator, US born, been in Ethiopia for about 9 months), "if this is the orphanages, what do the prisons look like". It is a perfect quote/description for how bad the conditions in this facility are. Besides that the facility is run down, so many of these boys have no hope as evidenced by the fact that so many of them stay or come back after they turn 18.
It is very sobering to just be driving down the road in Ethiopia and see the poverty. But to be up close talking to these boys makes me both sad and grateful for what I have. As bad as the facility is, the boys were very friendly and genuinely happy to have us come visit. They wanted to show us their rooms, their soccer field (a slanted mud field about 50 yards long with no goals), and even their kitchen (basically a firewood burning stove with no chimney, crazy smoky inside the kitchen). They wanted you to take their picture and ask where you were from. Many of the boys did not want us to leave.
The second orphanage was for older girls and younger boys and girls. It was significantly better. It was obvious that it was regularly cleaned and maintained. There were far too many children and not enough adults, but the children were happy and there to put on a show for the Americans. Obviously they were hoping to be adopted, but you could tell that they cared for one another. A women in our group was adopting a 9 month old, and her baby came from this orphanage. When the children saw that the little boy was back, they were so happy to see him and it was obvious that both the children and the caretakers genuinely cared about this young boy (this was repeated at the next orphanage with another couples baby).
The third orphanage was really neat to see. We were greeted with a traditional/made-up song from the young boys that lived there. Apparently this song is only performed one day a year, so we were very lucky. This orphanage had more younger children and so many of them were so cute. We went into the infant room for a few minutes. There were probably 15 babies under the age of one, each in their own crib. None of them were crying and most of them smiled back or reached up for you when you stopped at their crib. There were about 4 caretakers in the baby room and they knew all of the babies by name. I was carrying Zane when we went in the baby room and the workers all came up to me and looked at Zane, kissed him and smiled at him, then said, "what is his name?, he did not come from here".
The Gladney staff is doing a great job of trying to be around these kids and helping them with English classes and just showing kindness. The kids even know the drivers (even ours, who is very stoic and quite, but the kids love him). But there are too many kids.
As much growth as there is right now in Addis (10%+ GDP growth for all of Ethiopia in 2006 according to the CIA country factbook), they have such a long way to go and there are so many orphans. We just went to 3 orphanages. There are many, many more.
I have barely talked about Zane. He is just fantastic. Still super cute and easy. We are taking him to a pediatrician tomorrow. He has a nasty hack cough and some funky poop. I am sure the Doctor will say that it will get better once we get him home, but we just want to make sure.
Right now it is 11:00 pm in Addis and Heather and Zane are sleeping. It is my turn to do the same before the likely 2:00 am wake-up cry.
OK, that is all I have for now.
Chris